This isn’t another ’90s mountain bike conversion or a Frankenbike, monster-cross build. It’s a much simpler, cheaper project born of necessity, curiosity, limited funds and space – and a desire to make better use of a bike I couldn’t possibly part with.
My dedicated gravel bike, a Sonder Camino Al, can happily handle a 50mm tyre; however, it’s not enough anymore. So I turned to a bike I’d left languishing in the back of my shed. My 2018 Cotic Solaris Max is far more capable than a hardtail should be; it’s composed, holds speed well, and has a utility newer bikes often lack – qualities that could make it a great gravel bike.
My build philosophy was simple: shed weight on a shoestring budget while maximising speed and versatility. The result: three simple swaps for less than £500 that just about anyone can do at home.
The Build
Drop bars were ruled out immediately. Sourcing a new drop-bar groupset, since I don’t have one sitting around, would have killed the budget, and the Cotic’s long 435mm reach, designed around a stubby 35mm stem, would have stretched the cockpit uncomfortably far. Keeping the flat bar and existing shifting kept the cost down and preserved the bike’s handling.
(Image credit: Matt Ischt-Barnard)
Swapping the fork for a rigid carbon one was the easiest win, and this is where much of the weight saving comes from. Ditching the hefty 2.2kg/4.8lbs, steel-stanchioned RockShox 35 for the 650g/1.4lbs Sonder Pathfinder saved 1.5kg instantly. Because the Solaris is designed around a 120–140mm suspension fork, I opted for a 500mm axle-to-crown measurement to preserve the front-end geometry and stack height.
Cheap Chinese Carbon Forks
Direct-from-China marketplaces offer rigid carbon forks for well under £100 with numerous offset and length options. I paid more for the Sonder because it is the cheapest option (£340) backed by a reputable UK retailer with a real warranty and crash replacement. Popular alternatives from Enve, Whisky, or Salsa easily top £500.
Next, I binned the dropper post. While not a heavy-duty offering, it offered longer 180mm travel and weighed 725g/1.5lbs, including the cable and actuator lever. In its place, I opted for the cheap and no-nonsense BBB SkyScraper alloy seatpost for less than £30, which weighs only 295g/10.4oz – even if the sudden loss of seated flex would come back to bite me later.
Finally, I ditched the near-kilo trail tyres in favor of fast-rolling 2.4in/60mm Goodyear Peak SLs. At 710g/2.5lbs each, they saved me half a kilo overall, shedding significant rotating mass without adding much weight over many 50mm gravel tyres. At £60 apiece, backed by Goodyear’s solid track record for durability, they strike the ideal sweet spot between speed, weight, price, and carcass protection.
Overall, this got my Cotic down to a ready-to-ride weight, including pedals, my tube, electric pump, etc., of just 12kg/26.4lbs. That’s within 700g/1.5oz of my aluminium Sonder Camino, which features carbon wheels and seatpost, and 50mm Continental Dubnital tyres, marketed at well under 600g each.
(Image credit: Matt Ischt-Barnard)
Out Gravelling
Out on the very dry chalk and flint of the UK’s South Downs this summer, the Cotic was an instant hit. The weight drop and fast-rolling tyres transformed its pedalling efficiency. Long climbs were effortless with the 30T chainring and 11-46T cassette, yet the steel frame retained enough planted composure to avoid getting pinballed around like an ultra-light carbon gravel rig.
After my first few rides, I did drop the stem slightly and trimmed the bars down to 760mm from 800mm to help navigate overgrown trails and add a little more weight up front to stop it lifting on steep climbs. Best of all, returning to flat bars felt like home. Combined with 2.4in tyres run at low pressures, the front end was exceptionally smooth.
(Image credit: Matt Ischt-Barnard)
My biggest learning from the whole process was from the rear end of the bike, where the loss of compliance from the dropper post was very noticeable and not something I’d expected to miss. Swapping the dropper for an alloy post saved weight and seemed like a no-brainer, but I hadn’t accounted for how much fore-and-aft flex a telescoping dropper naturally provides. Replacing it with a rigid, oversized 31.6mm alloy tube made seated trail chatter noticeably harsher.
Future updates to this bike will include some solution to this problem. Potentially looking at a carbon post, a lightweight dropper post, or even something like the Redshift ShockStop, which I think might be less of an issue with constant fit changes.
The South Downs isn’t the most demanding place to ride a bike, especially in summer, when the chalk is dry. However, it features a lot of ‘classic’ British mountain bike riding: tight, narrow, usually overgrown singletrack and byways, which inevitably means riding slower. That is where the only real handling quirk came from: the swap to the rigid fork.
The bike suffers from a significant increase in ‘flop’ at slow speed (yes, that is a technical term), because the Pathfinder fork features a 51mm offset, much longer than the 44mm the frame and my suspension fork were designed around. The tall stack didn’t help, but because of the slack head angle, this change ultimately affected the bike’s mechanical trail. I can’t give exact numbers, but it’ll be around a 15 mm difference. It’s manageable, and I can easily ride around it, but an angle-adjust headset is on my winter shopping list to pull the geometry back in line.
(Image credit: Matt Ischt-Barnard)
Three Golden Rules for DIYers
Balance the axle-to-crown, but don’t ignore the offset
Match the sagged axle-to-crown of your frame’s geometry to the new fork length. This is easy: check online what the suspension manufacturer states is the axle-to-crown, work out 25% of the fork’s travel, then subtract that from the over-axle-to-crown as a starting point. If you wish to adjust the geometry, you can do this with the length, but just be careful you don’t go too far, as it’ll drop the bottom bracket too much.
Based on my own experience, especially if you’re working with a reasonably slack head angle, keep the same fork offset. If, like me, you are limited on options, you can always consider an angleset headset; check your frame compatibility with these first before buying your fork.
Resist the temptation of going too light on the tyres
When chasing speed and weight savings, it’s easy to get carried away with tyres. Without suspension, it’s worth factoring in tyre durability, too. You don’t have to go all in and choose 60mm tyres as I did; 2.1/53mm will save weight and boost speed while giving you some wiggle room for a more durable casing. If need be, consider running different tyres front and rear. That’s very common in mountain biking and helps balance grip and speed.
Change one variable at a time
Even though it might read that way, I didn’t make all these changes at once. This was a process that took a couple of months, so I could understand each change. I started with tyres; I didn’t want to change the fork without understanding how these handled. Once I was happy, I swapped the fork, then adjusted the cockpit, and once happy with all that, I removed my dropper. Doing it incrementally isolates handling quirks and prevents you from throwing good money away unnecessarily.
(Image credit: Matt Ischt-Barnard)
In Conclusion
Something you can’t put a price on is that this bike really helped me ride differently this year. At the start of the year, I said I was going to give up on the data and Strava and just ride my bike more. Until a recent back injury, that was all going to plan. The Cotic helped me learn to ride at my own pace, enjoy the ride more and lift my head up to the view.
“New bike day could just be the old mountain bike you already own”
For less than £500, three calculated swaps took my unloved frame from the back of the shed and turned it into the bike I reach for every time I ride. It isn’t perfect; the wheel flop will get sorted before winter sets in, but it proves you don’t need a new bike or have to sell much-loved bikes to make space. Sometimes new bike day, or even just building the ultimate gravel grinder, if you will, could just be the old mountain bike you already own, built up with a bit of thought rather than a shopping spree.
This build also proves that it can be done with almost any kind of hardtail; it doesn’t have to be a retro build, have drop bars, or even be very cool at all; it can just be very functional and do what you need it to do.
